From Chicken Feathers to Cashmere: AI's Wild Transformation of the Textile Industry
Cashmere sweaters are ubiquitous these days, often available at surprisingly low prices. The appeal is undeniable: if you’ve ever experienced the luxurious softness, lightweight feel, and warmth of cashmere, you understand why it’s a fiber many find hard to resist. However, those bargain prices often come at a hidden cost. The increasing demand for cashmere is putting immense pressure on traditional production methods, leading to unsustainable practices and declining quality. This article delves into how artificial intelligence is revolutionizing the textile industry, offering a path towards sustainable and affordable alternatives, even transforming waste like chicken feathers into high-quality materials.
The Cashmere Crisis: Supply, Demand, and Unsustainable Practices
Genuine cashmere originates from the fine undercoat of specific goat breeds. The supply is inherently limited; typically, a single goat yields only four to six ounces (113 to 170 grams) of cashmere annually after being sheared twice a year. This limited supply struggles to meet the ever-growing global demand. As a result, producers are increasingly resorting to more frequent shearing, compromising the fiber's quality and contributing to unsustainable herding practices.
“The producers of raw materials are actually under a lot of stress,” explains Sim Gulati, co-founder and CEO of Everbloom, in an interview with GearTech. “What you’re seeing now, especially with the advent of $50 cashmere sweaters, is that they’re being sheared way more often. The quality of the fiber is not as good, and it’s creating unsustainable herding practices.” The industry faces a critical need for innovative solutions that address both the environmental impact and the economic viability of cashmere production.
Everbloom and Braid.AI: A New Approach to Textile Innovation
Rather than attempting to reform existing herding practices or solely relying on consumer choices for higher-quality purchases, Everbloom is pioneering a different approach: upcycling. This startup, backed by over $8 million in investment from firms like Hoxton Ventures and SOSV, is focused on creating upcycled materials that are virtually indistinguishable from traditional cashmere. The core of their innovation lies in a material science AI called Braid.AI.
Braid.AI is a sophisticated model capable of fine-tuning various parameters to engineer fibers with specific desired qualities. While cashmere is a primary target, the technology is applicable to a wide range of materials commonly used in the textile industry. This versatility positions Everbloom as a potential disruptor across multiple sectors.
The Keratin Connection: From Waste to Wearable Fiber
Everbloom’s process, regardless of the final product, centers around utilizing waste streams. Currently, the company collects discarded materials from cashmere and wool farms, mills, and even down bedding suppliers. Their future plans include expanding these sources to incorporate waste from the poultry industry – specifically, chicken feathers. The unifying factor across all these waste streams is keratin, the key protein that forms the foundation of Everbloom’s transformative process.
The collected waste is processed by being chopped to a consistent size and then combined with proprietary compounds. This mixture is then fed through a plastic extrusion machine – a standard piece of equipment used to shape materials by forcing them through a die. The resulting pellets are subsequently processed by spinning machines, the same type used to create polyester fiber. “That equipment is used for 80% of the textile market,” Gulati emphasizes. “You have to be a drop-in replacement.”
The Manufacturing Process: AI-Powered Transformation
The magic happens within those two machines – the extruder and the spinning machine. All the necessary chemical reactions occur during this process, allowing Everbloom to create fibers that mimic the properties of various materials, from polyester to cashmere. The key to this adaptability is Braid.AI, which intelligently adjusts the formulation and processing parameters to achieve the desired fiber characteristics.
Here’s a breakdown of the process:
- Waste Collection: Sourcing keratin-rich waste from various industries.
- Preparation: Chopping and combining waste with proprietary compounds.
- Extrusion: Shaping the mixture into pellets using a plastic extrusion machine.
- Spinning: Transforming the pellets into fibers using standard spinning machines.
- AI Optimization: Braid.AI continuously refines the process for optimal fiber quality.
Biodegradability and Economic Viability: A Sustainable Future for Textiles
Everbloom isn’t just focused on replicating materials; they’re committed to sustainability. The startup claims that every fiber they produce is biodegradable, even those designed to replace polyester. “All the components that we’re using are biodegradable,” Gulati states, adding that the company is currently conducting accelerated testing to validate this claim.
Furthermore, Everbloom aims to make their materials more affordable than traditional options. “We want it to be more economically viable for brands and consumers,” Gulati explains. “I don’t believe in a ‘sustainable premium’ – the idea that eco-friendly products should cost more. In order for a material to be successful – both in the supply chain [and for] the consumer – you have to have both a product benefit and an economic benefit to everyone who touches the product. That’s what we’re aiming for.”
The Potential Impact: Beyond Cashmere
While initially focused on cashmere alternatives, Everbloom’s technology has far-reaching implications. The ability to upcycle keratin-rich waste opens up possibilities for creating sustainable alternatives to a wide range of textiles, reducing reliance on virgin materials and minimizing environmental impact. This includes potential applications in:
- Wool replacements: Utilizing wool waste and feather keratin.
- Synthetic fiber alternatives: Creating biodegradable polyester substitutes.
- Specialty textiles: Engineering fibers with unique properties for specific applications.
The Rise of AI in Material Science: A Broader Trend
Everbloom is not alone in leveraging AI to revolutionize material science. Across various industries, AI is being used to:
- Discover new materials: AI algorithms can analyze vast datasets to identify promising material combinations.
- Optimize material properties: Machine learning models can predict how changes in composition or processing will affect material performance.
- Accelerate research and development: AI can automate experiments and analyze results, significantly reducing the time and cost of material innovation.
This trend is fueled by the increasing availability of data, advancements in machine learning algorithms, and the growing demand for sustainable and high-performance materials. Companies like Citrine Informatics and Kebotix are also making significant strides in AI-driven material discovery and development.
Looking Ahead: The Future of Textiles is Circular and Intelligent
The transformation of chicken feathers into cashmere-like fibers, powered by AI, represents a paradigm shift in the textile industry. Everbloom’s innovative approach not only addresses the sustainability challenges associated with traditional cashmere production but also demonstrates the immense potential of upcycling and AI-driven material science. As the industry continues to embrace circular economy principles and leverage the power of artificial intelligence, we can expect to see even more groundbreaking innovations that redefine the future of textiles – a future that is both sustainable and economically viable. The days of relying on unsustainable practices and accepting a “sustainable premium” are numbered, thanks to companies like Everbloom and the transformative power of Braid.AI. The future of fashion is intelligent, circular, and surprisingly, may very well start with a chicken feather.